Legs, Lycra and Me

By Monica Kowalska

From royal legs to riotous queues, the evolution of stockings is a tale woven with fashion, innovation, a healthy dose of scandal and the kind of sheer drama only hosiery can deliver.

Long before stockings became a staple in women’s wardrobes and a secret weapon in my own drawer, they adorned the legs of European nobility. In the 16th century, kings like Henry VIII were strutting around in silk stockings, flaunting their wealth with each puffed calf. Yes, back then, a good leg was considered peak masculinity. Yes, it was the men who first turned hosiery into a statement. The irony isn’t lost on me. One courtier even boasted that Queen Elizabeth I had gifted him her garters, not as a romantic gesture, but as a sign of supreme royal favor. A literal leg up in court politics, if you will.

These early stockings were hand-sewn, made from silk or wool and lacked stretch entirely. They didn’t cling, they lounged. And since elastic hadn’t yet graced the Earth with its existence, enter the garter: a ribbon or band wrapped around the thigh to keep things from sliding south. Functional, yes, but also flirtatious – there’s a reason garters eventually became the star of the bridal toss. 

Then came the glorious invention of nylon in 1939. DuPont unveiled it with all the subtlety of a magician pulling a rabbit out of a very sexy hat. “Stronger than steel, finer than silk,” they promised and women were instantly enchanted. When nylons officially went on sale in 1940, 72,000 pairs sold in one day. Hosiery hysteria had arrived and so had the garter belt, the slightly dominatrix-looking, but oh-so-practical contraption designed to hold stockings up via suspender clips. It was all very engineering-meets-burlesque.

World War II, however, rudely interrupted the stocking party. Nylon was suddenly needed for parachutes, tents and ropes, leaving women with bare legs and broken hearts. Some resorted to drawing faux stocking seams down their calves with eyebrow pencil. One clever woman in Detroit even opened a business offering “leg make-up” services, complete with painted-on seams. Honestly? Entrepreneurial queen. Meanwhile, the black market in nylon flourished.

By the 1960s, fashion said, “Why not show more leg?” and the mini skirt arrived like a cheeky wink to tradition. Pantyhose, also known as tights, or as I like to call them, “yoga for your legs,” were invented to save us from the daily garter belt battle. They were sleek, modern and screamed liberation. Though personally, I've always had a love-hate relationship with pantyhose. On one hand, they make your legs look like they’ve been airbrushed by angels. On the other, getting into them is like trying to stuff a cat into a sock. But even with pantyhose dominating, the allure of stockings remained.

And that’s where hold-ups strut in. These miracle stockings defy gravity thanks to built-in elastic and a little rubberized magic. No garter belts needed. They’re like the rebels of the hosiery family, sultry, independent and probably sipping espresso while judging your outfit. I’ve worn them on dates, at conferences and every time, I feel like I could conquer a kingdom or at least a cocktail hour.

But let’s not forget my true love: fishnets, the misunderstood bad girls of the hosiery world. To some, they scream cabaret and crime noir. To me? They whisper confidence. My first pair felt like a transformation. I didn’t just wear them, I became someone else. Someone bolder, someone sassier, someone who could deliver a one-liner and a high kick. Fishnets are art. They’re flirtation in fabric form. They say, “Yes, I’m classy, but don’t test me.”

Today, stockings are less about necessity and more about identity. Whether you choose silky thigh-highs with lace tops, vintage garter belts with little metal clasps or modern hold-ups with anti-slip wizardry, you’re making a statement. And if you’re slipping into fishnets? Darling, you’re making a scene in the best way possible.

So next time you roll on a pair, take a moment. You’re not just dressing your legs, you’re embracing centuries of sass, seduction and survival. From queens and riots to your own glorious mirror selfie, stockings have always been about more than modesty. They’re about power. Because whether you’re conquering the boardroom, the ballroom or just brunch with a little extra flair, stockings never go out of style.

Monika has been interviewing trans people in her blog, The Heroines of My Life, since 2013. Click here to see who she has interviewed lately.

Cassen femulating in the Spanish film La tía de Carlos en mini-falda.